The Filipino roots of mezcal

The Filipino roots of mezcal

Published by Luigi on June 11, 2008

“Clash of civilizations” is a common rhetorical trope these days. But it is as well to remember that good things can — and often do — happen when cultures come together. A paper just out in GRACE gives an example involving agrobiodiversity. In it, Daniel Zizumbo Villareal — the doyen of Mexican coconut studies, among other things — and his co-author set out the evidence for the origin of mezcal, the generic name for agave spirits in Mexico.

It turns out that this most Mexican of drinks is unknown from pre-Columbian times, although of course the cooked stems and floral peduncles of various species of Agave were used as a carbohydrate source by the ancient populations of what is now western Mexico, and drinks were made from both these and their sap. But, apparently, distillation had to wait until a Filipino community became established in the Colima hills in the 16th century. They were brought over to establish coconut plantations, and started producing coconut spirits, as they had done back home. The practice was eventually outlawed in the early 17th century, and this prohibition, plus increased demand for hard liquor by miners, led to its application to agaves instead, and its rapid spread. The first record of mezcal is from 1619. Mexicans (not to mention other tequila afincionados the world over) have a lot to thank Filipinos for.

link to - The Filipino roots of mezcal - article

Abstract: No evidence exists of distillation in Mexico before European contact. The Philippine people in Colima established the practice in the 16th Century to produce coconut spirits. Botanical, toponymic, archaeological, and ethnohistoric data are presented indicating that agave distillation began in Colima, in the lower Armería-Ayuquila and Coahuayana-Tuxpan river basins, using Agave angustifolia Haw. and through adaptation of the Philippine coconut spirits distillation technique. Subsequent selection and cultivation of agaves led to their domestication and diversification. This did not take place in the lower river basins, where agave populations tended to disappear.

Early coconut distillation and the origins of mezcal and tequila spirits in west-central Mexico

The distillation technique spread to the foothills of Colima volcanoes and from there to all of western Mexico, leading to creation of tequila and other agave spirits. Two factors aided producers in avoiding strict Colonial prohibitions and were therefore key to the diffusion and persistence of agave spirits production: (1) clandestine fermentation in sealed, underground pits carved from bedrock, a native, pre-European contact technique; and (2) small, easy-to-use Philippine-type stills that could be hidden from authorities and allowed use of a broad range of agave species.

Second section from a book study - requires purchase to read further

And if you have any doubts about the above article I suggest going to Ian Chadwick's authoritative site on Mezcal and Tequila - great site

History of Colima

History of Colima from the History Channel

Early History
Little is known about Colima's early history except that the Otomi, Nahuatl, Tolteca, Chichimeca and Tarasca cultures flourished there between approximately 2000 B.C and 1000 A.D.
When the Spanish arrived in the area around 1525, much of West Mexico was under the political control of the Kingdom of Tzintuntzan, which was the second largest and most powerful Mesoamerican Empire. Its influence stretched from the state of Mexico into Guanajuato, around the shores of Lake Chapala and through part of Colima to the Pacific coast. The Purépechas, known as the Tarascans by the Spanish conquistadors, occupied the area from about 1100 A.D. to 1530 A.D. along with the Colimas Indians, who are closely related to the Tarascas. King Colimán, the leader of the Colimas, waged a successful war against the Purépechas just before the Spanish arrived, forcing the Purépechas to the southern part of the region.

Middle History
Led by Juan Rodriguez de Villafuentes, Juan Alvarez Chico and Cristobal de Olid, the Spanish arrived at Colima in 1522. King Colimán, recognizing the threat presented by the conquistadors, resisted the incursion. The indigenous forces initially won battles at Trojes, Paso de Alima and Toluca, but in 1523 they lost a decisive battle against Gonzalo de Sandoval at Caxitlán. Sandoval immediately established a Spanish settlement, San Sebastián de Colima, in what is now the city of Colima. In 1524, Don Francisco Cortés de Buenaventura arrived and became the citys first mayor.

Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza visited the city of Colima in 1540 and ordered the construction of a royal road between Colima and Mexico City. The new route quickly made Colima a vital center of commerce. The port city of Manzanillo, with its central location on the Pacific coast, also played a key role in gathering and transporting goods for the Spanish crown.

When the fight for Mexican independence began in 1810, Colima priest José Antonio Díaz led a group of revolutionaries in support of Miguel Hidalgo. A relatively small number of royal troops occupied the region when hostilities began, and they were easily defeated by the rebels. Afterward, little military action took place in Colima. In 1821, the Plan of Iguala established the direction for an independent Mexico. When Spain signed the Treaty of Córdoba later that year, Colima and the other Mexican territories formally gained their independence.

Recent History
Colima was made a Mexican state in 1857. Less than ten years later, Mexicos President Benito Juárez, refusing to recognize French authority, moved the seat of government to Colima (1864-1867) and other locations until the French were driven from power and the capital returned to Mexico City.
Porfirio Díaz served as president from 1877 to 1880 and again from 1884 to 1911. Under his leadership, the region saw great economic growth. Díaz ordered the construction of roads, railroads and communications networks. The improved infrastructure significantly strengthened Colimas economic ties with Mexico City.

The Mexican Revolution that began in 1910 brought political instability to Colima as factions loyal to various revolutionary and anti-revolutionary leaders operated throughout the state. In the 1920s, the military conflict subsided as the PRI (Institutional Revolutionary Party) rose to power, dominating political life for the rest of the 20th century. Colima, along with the rest of the country, finally enjoyed some measure of peace.

History Channel Colima

Tuba - a drink from the Philippines

This tradition originated in the Philippines and was handed down through the generations. It then arrived in Mexico by means of the Manila Galleon.

When the Manila galleon arrived on the Colima coast in the 16th century in search of lime that was so necessary to prevent scurvy among its passengers, it disembarked groups of Philippine workers, who came to grow sugar cane and rice in the fields of the region.

The exchange of customs between both countries that had both been taken over by Spain soon bore fruit. Chocolate, tamales, tortillas pozole (a thick, pork based broth) were sent from Mexico and from the Philippines came, among other things, shawls and the tuba. This term comes from the Philippine and means a nutritious, refreshing drink which is an extract of the coconut palm flower.

By: Guadalupe Silva

See the rest of the article at Mexicodesconocido.com

Costalegre y Colima en la Época Prehispánica

The Colima Dog
The name of these curious dogs is "Choloesquincles", it means in Nahualt "perro pequeño" and little dog in English. The function of the dogs is to accompany the dead people to the heaven. That's why there always are dogs in the graves.

The oldest settlers on record were the Otomíes, that settled on the coasts of the Mexican Pacific, by years 250 to 750 a.d..

There were in addition other small tribes who lived in this region, but did not develop because stronger and numerous Nahua groups arrived from the direction of the center of Mexico.

Between years 900 to 1154 the Toltecas groups, who were the origin of the Nahua, bloomed by imposed their culture on the more primitive communities.

Finally the Chichimecas arrived, during the period from 1154 to 1428, leaving numerous signs of their life and customs.

Many years before the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, this region was populated by Otomíes indigenous groups, Mexican Toltecas, Aztecs, of the types; Chichimecas, Popolocas, Tecos, Cocaines, Tecuejes, et cetera.

The work that the settlers of this region dedicated themselves, was mainly agriculture, fishing, harvesting of salt and mining. The main metal used was copper, with which they made adornments and utensils. The use of gold and silver seems to have been developed previous to copper.

They built their houses of sticks with palapa ceilings establishing the construction technique still in use: bajarete or pajarete, that consists of constructing walls of twigs or woven rattans and covered with mud. They were also skilled at; pajarete wood embroidery, palapa weaving, driftwood sculpturing and beach pebble and seashell flooring.

The dominant language was Nahuatl but with many variants and modifications.

It is seen from the lack of huge buildings and monuments, that the inhabitants of the region were not great engineers nor constructors. But however they were extraordinary potters and ceramists which is shown through the million archaeological pieces representing aspects of life, political customs, their ideas, their dreams, and their fantasies.

In the pre-Columbian pottery we can find men working, shippers raising heavy bundles, hunting, important soldiers with distinguished uniforms, sportsmen like runners and fighters, judges, women performing domestic tasks or pregnant women, musicians, and an animal infinity, fruits, plants and others. All made with skillful techniques that surprise by their reality and beauty.

The most important towns of the pre-Hispanic time in southern Jalisco and Colima were Tzalahua - present Salagua, Moyutla - Colomo, Totolmaloya - present Santiago, Chiametla, Camotlán, Malaoaztla - today Marabasco, Aguatán - Barra de Navidad, Cihuatlán, Gualataca - today Cualata, Cacalutla - disappeared, among others.

Copied and translated from Manzanillo's Historical Archives page
Archivo Histórico de Manzanillo